Straight answers about attic insulation

The Calgary market runs about $1.50–$2.50 per square foot installed for blown-in top-ups. Ours starts at $1.65/ft² to R-50; a typical 1,100–1,500 ft² attic lands between $1,900 and $2,900 all-in — including air-sealing of ceiling penetrations, soffit baffles, and an insulated, weatherstripped hatch. R-60 and heavy air-sealing jobs run more. The calculator estimates yours instantly.

New Alberta homes are built to roughly R-50–R-60 effective in the attic under the energy code (section 9.36) — about 18–20″ of blown insulation. Existing homes aren't forced to upgrade, but R-50 is the level financing programs pay for and inspectors flag. Pre-1995 homes typically measure R-12 to R-24. Depth is the quick test: hold a tape measure to the insulation; under 12″ means you're a strong top-up candidate.

Usually no — existing fiberglass or cellulose in decent shape keeps its R-value, and we blow straight over it. Removal is for water damage, serious rodent contamination, or vermiculite. Anyone who quotes removal by default is selling you labour you probably don't need.

Here's the honest version: at mid-2026 gas prices a typical Calgary home going R-20 → R-50 saves about $70–$130 a year in energy — our calculator shows that openly. What makes the job worth $2,500 to most people: bedrooms that hold temperature in January, a cooler upstairs in July, ice dams prevented, R-50 on the listing sheet at resale, and CEIP financing that costs nothing up front. And if gas prices revert to their 5-year average, the energy savings roughly double. Propane-heated farm buildings are the exception — the math there is dramatic (thousands per year; see farms & barns).

About three hours for a typical house: setup and floor protection, air-sealing and baffles in the attic, 45–90 minutes of blowing, photos, cleanup, done. The hose comes through a window or the hatch. You'll hear the blower hum; that's about it. We vacuum our path on the way out.

Attics insulated before ~1990 sometimes contain vermiculite (grey-gold pebbly flakes, often Zonolite brand), which can carry asbestos. It must not be disturbed — by us or anyone. Every visit starts with a vermiculite screen. If we see suspect material, we stop, show you photos, and point you to lab testing. We don't do abatement and won't pretend to; we'd rather lose the job than cut a corner on this one.

Bonus rooms lose heat through more surfaces — attic above, garage below, and little triangular "knee-wall" attics at the sides that are chronically under-insulated and leaky. Topping up those spaces and air-sealing the knee walls is usually the highest-impact fix in the whole house. It's the most common call we get, and the most satisfying one to solve.

Ice dams happen when house heat leaks into the attic, melts the snow on the roof, and the meltwater refreezes over the cold eaves. The cure is the full top-up recipe: seal the ceiling air leaks, insulate to R-50 so the roof deck stays cold, and keep soffit vents clear with baffles. Do all three and most ice-dam problems disappear; skip the sealing and they often don't.

The federal Greener Homes Grant closed Dec 31, 2025 (the Loan closed Oct 1, 2025) — ignore any site still advertising it. Live now: CEIP in Calgary, Red Deer, and other municipalities (up to $50,000 financed at ~5.7% for up to 20 years, repaid on your property tax bill) and, for farms, the On-Farm Efficiency Program (50% cost-share; next intake expected ~September 2026). Full details on the rebates page, which we keep current.

Honestly? For a simple attic and a careful person — yes, and you'll save money. The trap is that the lasting value is in the prep: sealing penetrations, damming around flues and non-IC pot lights, baffling soffits, insulating the hatch. That's the part DIY jobs skip, and it's most of the comfort and all of the ice-dam protection. If you DIY: seal first, wear a real respirator, check your pot lights' ratings before burying anything, and don't compress the material. If you'd rather it be done in an afternoon with photos to prove the depth — that's us.

Whenever — attics are workable year-round. Summer books faster and beats the rush; the busiest weeks of our year are always the first −30° snap, when everyone remembers their attic at once. Farm ceilings slot best between flocks or before winter barn-close.

Yes — poultry barns, shops, and colony buildings are half our business plan. Biosecurity is non-negotiable: fresh coveralls and boot covers at every site, equipment washed down between farms, visitor log signed, work scheduled around your flock cycle. Every barn quote ships with an On-Farm Efficiency Program-ready paperwork file. Details on the farms & barns page.